These trousers from younger model Casatlantic need to be in our chino collection (beforehand Rubato; upcoming Actual McCoy’s) by advantage of being cotton twills, in a reasonably clear model.
However they aren’t your on a regular basis, traditional chinos. They’re very excessive rise, with a wider tapering leg, in a barely uncommon materials.
I actually like them. However they’re one thing I believe I will put on as a selected selection, main the remainder of the outfit, reasonably than an on a regular basis versatile chino.
They had been impressed by the navy trousers that founder Nathaniel Asseraf’s grandfather used to put on in Morocco, following the Second World Warfare.
Though Nathaniel was born in Sweden, and lives in Gothenburg, his household initially got here from Morocco. It’s photographs of his grandfather’s life in Casablanca, usually carrying leftover French and American navy clothes, that evokes the appear and feel of the Casatlantic model.
Though the story truly begins earlier than there was any consideration of Morocco.
Nathaniel’s day job is working for Broadway & Sons, the longstanding classic seller in Gothenburg that was based by his father within the 1980s. That’s Nathaniel modelling the garments in lots of the pictures on-line.
Nathaniel used to put on classic navy trousers loads – excessive waisted, vast legged, softened over a long time of use – and was requested by buddies the place he acquired them. The place they might get them.
After all they normally couldn’t, as a result of classic hardly ever is available in a spread of sizes. So – because the story usually goes lately – Nathaniel began trying to see if he might make some himself.
That was when he discovered the images of his grandfather and his buddies. And when he began looking for a manufacturing unit in Morocco that would make them for him.
“After I first began working with this place, the fellows had been very uncertain concerning the types,” Nathaniel says. “They’d say ‘Are you positive you need them this excessive? We’re undecided anybody will purchase them.’ I needed to insist on the peak, the width. It was loads simpler realizing the recognition of the classic types.”
The trousers that resulted have an increase of 33cm (on the dimensions 30 waist) which is what I might name a real high-rise – proper up above the hip bones, on or above the stomach button.
There are three types, with the most important distinction between them being the leg line. Tanger is the widest (24cm on the hem), Mogador the center (22.5cm) and El Jadida the slimmer (20.5cm). Pictured in that order, left to proper, beneath.
They’re all pretty beneficiant, and regardless that it’s the center choice, I’d describe my Mogador as undoubtedly a large leg. That’s notably apparent via the knee. The place tailor-made wide-legged trousers (eg my Sextons right here) are fairly straight from the knee down, the Casatlantic ones are tapered, nearly pegged. Which does make them look much less dressy.
There are different small variations between the fashions, with the obvious with the Mogador being its facet adjusters on the hips (not the waist) the place the others have belt loops.
“The unique 1930s pair these had been modelled on had these low facet adjusters and belt loops,” says Nathaniel. “I suppose it allowed them to be tightened on the hips, whereas the belt on the prime might be extra ornamental. I didn’t assume most guys would get that in the present day although.”
The decrease adjuster capabilities properly, tightening neatly into the facet seam. I ended up going for a really cosy 30-inch waist, however I additionally tried a 32, and there the adjuster was very helpful.
That facet seam additionally appears to be set a little bit ahead, which makes the pockets straightforward to make use of regardless that they’re minimize vertically, into the seam.
It is a very clear option to design pockets, however after I’ve used it previously they’re uncomfortable to make use of. Not so right here.
The make is sort of easy generally although, which has its upsides and disadvantages.
For instance, the waistband is made as a single piece, with no seam within the again. That is the best way denims are made, reasonably than chinos, and appears nice however has the drawback that the waist can’t be altered simply.
There may be additionally no lining to the waistband – simply two items of the cotton twill, in and out – which is rather less steady. Each are used on navy trousers I’ve too, however contribute to a sense of it being a reasonably simple, useful make.
After I spoke to Nathaniel, he did say he was planning to alter this: “The brand new Safi mannequin that’s popping out this week can have a seam at the back of the waistband, and we’ll be utilizing a cotton lining inside too. That is our first assortment and we’re nonetheless studying loads from suggestions on what folks need.”
The trousers at present are available in three colors. I purchased the white, and liked the durability of the twill, which holds a pointy crease. Fabric is normally the toughest factor to get a way of on-line, so it was an ideal aid.
Apparently the navy and beige are totally different, although. The cotton is bleached to make the white much less ecru/yellow, however dyed for the opposite two colors, which makes them softer and drapier.
All three have the great dry deal with Nathaniel wished although, replicating the texture of recent navy trousers, which then soften as they’re washed and worn through the years.
(If any readers are uncertain what ‘dry’ means in relation to material, think about one thing that your hand slides throughout simply, with no softness, friction or nap to cease it.)
I actually just like the Casatlantic trousers, however as I stated they are going to be an occasional piece for me, reasonably than a primary chino.
I notably like them as a Summer time choice, with a polo and deck footwear – as proven. The fabric has a sailcloth-like really feel to it within the white, which makes this model really feel notably acceptable.
It additionally means I’m effective with the upper rise. I wouldn’t put on it day by day, however as an occasional model choice it’s nice. I do the identical with an outdated pair of Arnys linen trousers already.
Whereas we’re speaking about high-rise trousers, although, I assumed it could be good as an example why I discover them limiting.
The pictures increased up this publish present the trousers with a PS Most interesting Polo untucked, which is pure with knitwear and appears nice. The ribbing of the polo covers the waistband, decreasing the seen rise by an excellent 5 – 6 centimetres.
However when one thing is tucked into trousers this excessive – and never coated by a jacket or overshirt – the proportions are too uncommon for me. The physique is simply too small; it appears to be like odd.
I’ve intentionally tucked my polo in within the pictures above, as an example this. After all, the polo would spill out a little bit through the day, however these proportions between leg and physique are nonetheless fairly excessive. And I imagine I even have a reasonably low waist in comparison with the common.
Nathaniel’s styling of the Casatlantic trousers is unbelievable. Even should you do not just like the trousers, I believe the positioning and the Instagram account are value following only for that. I’ve included a couple of of my favourites above.
These pictures are all of shirts untucked or with knitwear, although. When the shirts are tucked in, it’s not my model. I do know it really works properly for others, however I personally choose to be much less uncommon. For almost all of my trousers due to this fact, I’ll proceed to need a decrease rise.
The Casatlantic trousers value €150. They’ve just lately been restocked, however not all colors will at all times be accessible. Nathaniel likes the concept of small batches which might be then distinctive or collector’s items.
A brand new mannequin is launching on Wednesday, Safi, which can have the slimmer leg of the El Jadida, however facet adjusters, on the waistband.