Dobrik & Lawton is 2 younger tailors, Joshua Dobrik and Kimberley Lawton, which have arrange on their very own of their home in Walthamstow, north-east London.
Their look is uncommon and dramatic. It’s not one thing I’d personally put on, and I’d think about it’ll stay area of interest – each due to the fashion and due to the Savile Row costs.
But it surely deserves to be coated and maybe celebrated, as a result of it brings one thing contemporary to an trade that may typically be staid, and since their work is being finished to such a excessive stage.
The lower is structured and angular. Sq. padded shoulders, a number of roping and an extended jacket with an in depth waist, which emphasises the form of the skirt.
To date, not so totally different from homes resembling Huntsman or Edward Sexton, the place the 2 educated.
The distinction is available in a handful of issues, some delicate and a few much less.
A delicate level is the height lapel, which is straight, broad and sharp. The collar is proportionally small, creating extra of a spot between the 2 and emphasising that time additional.
Much less delicate are the pointed patch pockets, the diamonds on the entrance of a belt or the within hip, and the dramatic particulars added to the again of some jackets: staggered darts, sun-ray patterns and different ornamental seam work.
The 2 pictures illustrate the extra and fewer delicate variations of the fashion. Beneath are a few of these intricate backs.
These final issues are nonetheless delicate from a distance. From throughout the road a Dobrik & Lawton piece would possibly seem like any common, structured go well with. As Joshua says, it’s actually not meant to be showy.
However from close-up, it’s displaying off – particularly, displaying off the total potential of the tailor’s artwork: demonstrating what is feasible, what could be achieved with painstaking bespoke.
And I believe you most likely must be this sort of buyer to be interested in Kimberley and Joshua’s fashion.
Whether or not you’re significantly drawn by their seam work or their design work – the ornamental again or the Moroccan battle gown (beneath) – it’s this exploratory, experimental bespoke that may make you a D&L buyer.
Utilizing a contact in Como they’ve additionally been in a position to develop some bespoke linings, proven within the third picture beneath.
There are various different examples of this work hanging across the workshop.
One buddy is having a siren go well with made; another person is designing a cameraman’s coat; my expensive buddy Edmund is having a protracted jacket made with work impressed by his house of Texas: there’s a yoke, so no shoulder seam, and the yoke runs straight into the again seam of every sleeve (the inexperienced jacket proven in entrance of a mirror, above).
As this record most likely makes clear, plenty of purchasers are mates, some from across the trade, and others are what we’d name bespoke fans: younger guys who’ve already tried Savile Row and Neapolitan tailors, and are in search of one thing new.
There’s additionally the occasional superstar. On the Dobrik & Lawton web site, they doc the work required to make a iridescent winged outfit for Brian Might – to put on as he rose via the stage on tour, enjoying the guitar sole from Bohemian Rhapsody.
For those who ever go to Kimberley and Joshua, it’s value asking about having to saddle sew these wings at three o’clock within the morning. Or about visiting Brian Might’s home – sorry, homes, one for every of the 2 canines.
I’ve had some readers which are additionally D&L prospects discuss how good it’s to go to the Walthamstow operation, and I can see why.
This isn’t a glamorous location. It’s a good way, on a important street, within the entrance room of the home. But additionally as a result of it’s Joshua and Kimberley’s house, a sure heat and friendliness is inevitable. Cups of tea and biscuits are served, different commissions mentioned which are hanging variously round. Prospects rapidly change into mates.
It’s the apotheosis of a snooty Savile Row walk-up.
And naturally the pair journey lots to prospects. To resort suites, to folks’s homes, anyplace. There aren’t any official journeys overseas but, however shifting round London for appointments is customary.
Returning to the home fashion, it must be mentioned that extra average variations of the look are all the time obtainable. Joshua says his trousers have a median of a 35-inch backside; prospects usually tend to have 20 or 22.
However nonetheless, it’s a good way from the 16 inches that is likely to be customary on the Row, and there’s no level going to a tailor with such a powerful fashion if it doesn’t enchantment to you.
For context, it’s value contemplating what the Dobrik & Lawton fashion is impressed by: principally Hollywood costume from the 1930s, such because the work of Adrian Greenburg (beneath).
These previous MGM movies completely exhibit the mix of influence and class at work right here: idiosyncratic designs all, however are additionally superbly executed. Greenburg’s style present within the movie The Girls is value a watch, even when it’s all womenswear.
I’ve no plans to ask Kimberley and Joshua to make me one thing. I’m much less interested in seam work, appliqué or overlay, or to exploring all of the potential of sample chopping.
However I massively admire what they’re doing, significantly for his or her dedication to the craft.
I ought to have mentioned that they’re each chopping and making plenty of issues themselves. Some go to a single coatmaker, however solely when the work required is easy sufficient (Joshua: “We’d like to have the ability to put all of it on two sheets of A4”).
And all of the fittings are being finished in-house, often with a number of bastes earlier than going to a completed go well with. Kimberley: “I see that being finished increasingly today. For those who’re working by yourself, it’s a lot extra environment friendly – you don’t must contain the coatmaker till the top, and you’ll good the match your self rapidly and simply. It meant we might match one buyer twice lately, within the three days he was in London.”
I want each of all of them the very best, and hope to see many distinctive clothes popping out of that home in years to come back.
Fits begin at £4950 together with VAT.
Images: Alex Natt @adnatt