My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the factor I used to be most enthusiastic about this Autumn was the prospect of sporting them once more.
It is annoying that, helpful as they’re (and arguably at this time, extra helpful than a bespoke go well with) they’re restricted to the colder months of the yr. Maybe I simply have to develop an equally robust love of linen trousers; then I might by no means be sad.
The coat I used to be notably trying ahead to sporting was this new one, from Sartoria Ciardi in Naples.
It was made earlier within the yr, however as a consequence of some poor planning, solely received worn a few instances earlier than the climate was too heat – and it needed to be fastidiously packed away within the attic.
It’s fairly a heat coat, being made in 850g wool from Holland & Sherry. It is from their Up to date Overcoatings bunch (code 9819306) which has some fairly wild issues in it, but in addition this and some beautiful herringbones.
The fabric is their recreation of the ‘British Heat’ – a method and cloth that was worn as an amazing coat by British officers through the First World Struggle. (Although not a melton, as it’s usually described.) It was later made well-liked by Winston Churchill.
It’s on the heavier finish of the vary for overcoats, and but, I hardly ever really feel sizzling in it. In the course of the go to to Stockholm pictured, temperatures topped out at 16 levels (celsius). But I used to be not sizzling.
I wore it open besides within the chilly mornings and evenings, and due to its stunning bespoke form, it nonetheless regarded good, draping fairly than simply hanging.
That maybe comes throughout in among the photographs, such because the one beneath.
The fabric has a good looking hand. It is wool – no cashmere in there – however gentle and tightly woven. A pretty mixture of delight and practicality, maybe.
The color might be finest described as taupe: a greyed, heat brown. It isn’t formal sufficient for the neatest enterprise apparel, actually, however definitely for something apart from that.
And it has a sense in frequent with the camel colors of a polo coat – that it might be thrown on with knitwear and denims on the weekend, but be good with a blazer and trousers too.
That is how I used to be sporting it right here, once we shot in Stockholm with Oliver and Carl of Rubato (proven above – article on their latest issues quickly) on a stroll round Sodermalm.
The denims are from Boncuore/Drake’s, from a couple of years again, and have a pleasant creamy (fairly than stark/optical) white that it isn’t at all times straightforward to seek out. The boots are my suede Saint Crispin’s.
On prime is a dark-grey cashmere crewneck from Colhay’s, with a white T-shirt exhibiting considerably over the neckline.
I say considerably as a result of this strip of white is a really efficient means of freshening the look, making no matter is beneath sit higher in opposition to the face.
If there’s a color that is not fairly so flattering on you, however seems to be nice in any other case (as this gray is on me) then that strip could be very useful.
It is nothing new, however is slightly level that males who put on quite a lot of crewnecks may do nicely to concentrate to. That no-shirt look may be fairly extra complimentary consequently.
In fact, the issue is you then want a T-shirt with a sufficiently excessive (not less than on the entrance) neckline to maintain constantly above the knitwear. This one is from Warehouse (by way of Clutch Cafe) however is slightly thick for an underlayer.
Whereas I do then just like the look of this knit below a coat with the collar down (as above), I nonetheless choose it with the collar up.
There may be some perspective to sporting the collar like this, and slightly extra relaxed air, which is commonly useful with tailoring. I’d be extra prone to put on the collar down if I have been in a go well with and tie.
Shrugging on the coat as you allow a restaurant, popping the collar, after which buttoning it, can also be very satisfying. Like being given a sculpted heavy-wool hug (from behind).
One drawback to this mixture of crewneck and overcoat is that the neck can look slightly naked. Once I’m involved about this (as I may be with a smaller-collared coat, comparable to my Ettore de Cesare topcoat) I’d put on a shawl free across the neck as nicely.
A darkish brown washed cashmere would have regarded good right here.
That top of the collar was the one factor I tweaked to Ciardi’s regular model of Ulster coat.
The Ulster is a very well-liked model in Naples, and most tailors have their model of it. You’ll be able to see me sporting Panico’s 20-year-old model right here. (There’s additionally an article coming in a few weeks on the assorted kinds of coat.)
Ciardi’s has the traditional horizontal gorge, making it simpler to wrap the coat across the throat, plus the turn-back cuff and buttoned vent on the again. There may be the (non-functional) buttoned half belt and swelled edges created by the (pretty customary Neapolitan) double rows of hand stitching.
Stylistically the one selection, actually, was to have postbox pockets fairly than the extra customary patches (one thing I’ve preferred ever since my navy Cifonelli coat). After which that collar, which I requested to be raised slightly to raised go well with my neck top.
Apparently, English and French makers are likely to have a two-piece collar – with a stand after which the precise collar folding excessive. And prepared-made coats usually have a crescent-shaped insert within the again. However the Neapolitan collar is normally only one piece.
Common readers will word that this coat is slightly just like the one I had made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final yr – each usually model and in color.
It’s, however there have been some errors made by each side in that fee (lined slightly right here) and I used to be eager to strive a Neapolitan Ulster – for some completeness on PS as a lot as for a alternative on the Whitcomb fee.
I’ll seemingly write extra about my reflections on that another time, as I’ve executed in Reflections on Bespoke posts.
The coat value £4800 (together with VAT), which can also be Ciardi’s beginning worth for an Ulster coat.
Pictures: Milad Abedi